The bulbous plant Nerine is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family. This bulbous ornamental perennial plant is found naturally in South Africa, as well as in its tropical zones. In regions with a cool climate, such a culture is grown on terraces or indoors. And in areas with a relatively warm climate, it is grown outdoors throughout the year. Such a plant blooms in the first half of the autumn period. Peduncle with inflorescences and foliage grow at the same time. The length of the peduncle is about 50 cm. The dark green leaf plates are narrow and long. Funnel-shaped flowers are collected in several pieces in umbrellas. The color of the flowers is white, pink, red or orange.
From the last autumn to the first spring weeks, nerina needs to provide bright lighting, but it should be diffused. The fact is that during this period, the bush has an intensive growth of foliage.
During the summer period, the bulbs of this plant should be stored in a warm (23 to 25 degrees) and dry place. After the bush has bloomed and until the first spring weeks, the plant should be placed in a cooler place (from 8 to 10 degrees), but if it is warm, then in the next season there may be no flowering.
When the plant has faded, its watering should be gradually reduced, and by the onset of the spring period it should be reduced even more. Then the plant must be stopped altogether, and watering is resumed only with the germination of the bulbs.
Nerine is fed with liquid fertilizers. During the flowering period, top dressing is carried out 1 time in 7 days, when the plant blooms and until the second half of spring it must be fed 1 time in 2 weeks. From May until the beginning of flowering, all feeding is stopped.
The duration of the dormant period is from May to August. During this period, all feeding is stopped, and the plant is placed in a warm place (about 25 degrees). In the first days of August, you should start a new forcing of the flower. At the beginning of the awakening of the bulb, a coating of bronze color forms on its neck. After that, the onion should be planted in a fresh substrate, and it should also be systematically watered. A soil mixture consisting of old clay, sand and compost soil or humus (1: 1: 1) is best suited, and a little bone meal and sand should also be added to it. In 10 liters of the resulting substrate, you need to add a little chalk (to lower the acidity of the soil mixture), 25 grams of horn shavings and superphosphate, as well as 8 grams of potassium sulfate.
In 1 pot, 1 or 2 onions should be planted. If you use an excessively bulky pot for planting, then because of this, the growth of the bulb will slow down. Therefore, the pot should be no more than 13 centimeters across. When planting the bulb, its head is left not dug. If everything is done correctly, then after about 4 weeks, flower stalks and buds should appear. If rooting was not done according to the rules, then the buds will remain closed.
Once the seeds are ripe, they should be sown immediately. Sowing is carried out in bowls filled with a substrate consisting of vermiculite and sand. Crops are harvested in a warm place (21 to 23 degrees). After about half a month, the first seedlings should appear, then they should be sorted out into separate pots filled with a special soil mixture (see above for the composition). The plants are removed to a cooler place (from 16 to 18 degrees), while they need to provide bright diffused lighting. For 3 consecutive years, young plants should be grown without a dormant period.
This plant contains poison, so when the work with it is finished, be sure to wash your hands well with soap and water.
When the nerine bulbs are planted after a dormant period, they must be watered very carefully, otherwise rot may appear on them.
This plant has a very high resistance to harmful insects, but aphids sometimes settle on it.
This species is native to South Africa. The length of the bulbs is about 50 millimeters, with most of them rising above the ground surface. The dry outer scales are glossy and brownish. Long leafy sheaths form a false stem, which reaches a height of 50 mm. Linear leaf plates, tapering towards the apex, are slightly grooved, their length is about 0.3 m, and their width is 25 mm. The surface of the glossy leaves is completely veined. The length of the peduncle is about 0.45 m, it has an umbrella-shaped inflorescence. There is no foliage on the peduncle. On the inflorescence there is an inflorescence leaf, over time it turns pink. The inflorescence contains about 12 flowers. On the surface of the swirling pink tepals, there is a strip of a darker color. This kind blooms in the middle of the autumn period.
This species is relatively rare. On long peduncles, inflorescences are located, consisting of flowers in a shape similar to bells, wavy petals can be painted pink or white. This species blooms in autumn.
Linear lanceolate leaf plates reach their maximum length only after the plant has faded. The length of the peduncle is about 0.4 m. The umbrella-shaped inflorescences include about 12 flowers similar to lilies. The flowers have glossy red petals, and their stamens are long.
At the top of the peduncle are red, orange or white flowers. Their petals are twisted and narrow.
There are species that, after flowering, do not enter a dormant period, they continue to develop in winter. After flowering, the plant continues to be watered regularly, but not too abundantly and is kept under normal conditions. The dormant period for such plants is in the summer, when they completely dry out the leaves. At the end of July - August, a new growth of leaves begins, and flowering occurs in the autumn months.
Usually, to please themselves with such an unusual plant as a spider lily, they use the seed method or planting bulbs.
Reproduction of nerine using seeds. This method is quite complicated and it will be difficult for a novice florist to cope with it, since it is used in the industrial cultivation of Guernsey lilies. This is due to the fact that the percentage of sown seeds that will sprout is quite low, and seedlings will not appear quickly. Seeds must be sown immediately after the ripe fruit pods are harvested. For this, separate peat cups are used, filled with soil mixture intended for seedlings. Some people use vermiculite instead of a substrate.
The distribution of nerine seeds is carried out on the surface of the soil, but you should not bury them in the soil mixture. The distance between seeds must be 2–3 cm if a seedling box was used instead of individual pots. After sowing, the seeds are sprayed from a finely dispersed spray bottle with water at room temperature. Containers with crops are covered with plastic transparent film or a piece of glass is placed on top.
When sowing is carried out, the room temperature should remain at 22-24 degrees. For successful germination, heat readings must not drop. Crop maintenance will consist of maintaining a constant, slightly moist soil and aeration every day for 10-15 minutes. If everything goes well, then after a month you can see the first shoots of nerine. Then the shelter can be removed, and the seedlings should be transferred to a cooler room, with a temperature of about 18 degrees. When a couple of leaves unfold on the seedling, it is recommended to transplant in separate containers and continue to grow seedlings. For three years, such young Cape lilies need to be grown without a dormant period, that is, watering should always remain regular and moderate, and it is not recommended to put the plants out in the cold. Only when this period has expired can the spider lily be transplanted into the garden.
Reproduction of nerine bulbs. Usually, daughter bulbs - babies - can form next to the mother spider lily bulb during the growing season. When, after a 4–5 year period, it is necessary to carry out a transplant, then it can be combined with separation. Children should be placed in separate pots with nutrient soil for a maximum of a couple of pieces and grown. Such young Cape lilies will bloom no earlier than 3-4 years from planting. The substrate for planting babies can be used as for the mother plant. Containers should not be selected large. Their diameter should be such that no more than 2-3 cm remains between the planted bulb and the wall of the pot. Only such a trick will allow the lily to start blooming, and not to grow new baby bulbs. Young lilies of Guernsey will bloom after planting only after 2-3 years.
In the warm season, for fuchsia, the optimum temperature will be in the range of + 20-25 degrees. In principle, a higher temperature is allowed, but not too much. When the temperature rises to +30 degrees, fuchsia can shed its leaves. Especially, this should be taken into account if you plant it in open ground for the summer, which is not only allowed, but also has a beneficial effect on it. But in this case it is necessary to plant it in a place where heating to a critical temperature is excluded. In the summer, many gardeners treat fuchsia like an azalea, that is, they drop it into the ground along with a pot. This will allow you to quickly change its location without damage to the plant.
In winter, this houseplant must be allowed to rest. Accordingly, the temperature during this period should be significantly reduced (about + 8-15 degrees). But severe hypothermia is just as dangerous as overheating. This is especially true for the root system. To maintain the optimal winter temperature, fuchsia is placed on the windowsill at this time, where the required temperature is most likely. In order to avoid hypothermia of the roots from a cold window sill or, on the contrary, overheating from a window sill heated by a radiator, the flower pot must be isolated from it. It's easy to do - place the pot on a suitable piece of styrofoam.
Indoor fuchsia is a photophilous flower, but the light for it should be bright, but diffused, without midday sunlight, which is a danger to most indoor plants. At home, the best place for the vast majority of indoor flowers, and fuchsias in particular, are windows oriented to the east or west. Even if in the morning or evening hours a certain amount of sunlight falls on the flower, it will only benefit her. The same rule should be used if you plant fuchsia in open ground.
Note. You cannot rearrange and rotate the flower during flowering! This can provoke the shedding of flowers and buds.
Fuchsia, for which home care is, in fact, very simple, is still demanding on proper watering. During the period of active development, which falls on the spring-summer period, it must be watered regularly and abundantly. But regularity does not lie in continuous watering and waterlogging of the soil. The rule of "golden mean" must be observed here. The most reasonable would be to water the fuchsia as soon as the top layer of soil in the pot dries up.... Thus, you will protect it from drying and overflow.
In winter, watering is significantly reduced. Some venerable flower growers recommend not watering it at all in October-November, but I would not recommend that beginner growers do this. Let the earth dry (not completely), and then water it. In general, watering fuchsia during the dormant period, with a cool content, is recommended once or twice a month. This will be enough. For irrigation at any time of the year, use settled water, preferably soft and, of course, not cold.
Try to spray the flower regularly in the summer. Fuchsia loves it. You can use other methods of maintaining air humidity. During the rest period, the flower should not be sprayed.
Fuchsia is fed only during the growing season. Starting from March until the onset of autumn, it can be fed with any complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants weekly (fertilizers for geraniums showed good results). From the end of summer, feeding should be gradually reduced, and with the onset of a dormant period, stop altogether.
A cool wintering plant is extremely necessary. Fuchsia cannot be continuously awake. In this case, you should not expect abundant flowering from her. And the life of a flower itself will be significantly reduced. Another thing is that not every amateur can provide full conditions for the fuchsia dormant period. Ideally, if it is possible to move it for the winter to a basement or other insulated backyard building. And not everyone has warm balconies and balconies. So you have to look for a way out.
As I mentioned, the best place for fuchsia in winter is in the basement. The fact that there is no light is not important. In winter, fuchsia does not need lighting, and the fact that it will lose leaves at the same time does not matter either. After planned pruning, if they remain on the plant, then very little. A glazed balcony or loggia can be a good place. But the temperature should be positive there. True, in such a place it will receive a share of the coverage, and development will continue.
But if not the first or the second method of wintering fuchsia is not available to you, then there is nothing left to do but look for a suitable place in the apartment. If you can find a dark and cool place, then great. If not, then you will have to put it on the windowsill. Let me remind you that the temperature for the winter content of fuchsia should be within + 8-16 degrees. Only small deviations from these limits are allowed, no more than a couple of degrees. This is the temperature on most windowsills. But such a rest cannot be considered complete either. The windowsill is the most illuminated place, even if it is north.
During this period, one should not forget about fuchsia. Even while hibernating, it requires some care. First of all, this is watering. Fuchsia does not like strongly overdried land even at rest. Therefore, watering will be required. But very careful and rare. The frequency of winter watering will directly depend on the air temperature. If it approaches the lower temperature mark, then you can water the flower 1-2 times a month, and if to the upper, then 2-3. At the same time, you should not pour fuchsia too much. Be sure to inspect the plant for pests. This applies mainly to fuchsia, which hibernate in the room. During this period, when the air is dry, pests are especially active. If the flower is in the basement, be sure to remove any falling leaves to avoid rotting.
But it also happens that there is no way to provide a cool wintering for fuchsia in any way. Of course, she will not die from this, and may even bloom in the middle of winter. But this is not entirely good.The plant weakens greatly from this, and when the time comes to bloom fully, this will not happen. Flowering will be delayed and weak. You can slightly alleviate her fate by pruning before winter, just as fuchsia is pruned after coming out of dormancy. Read about it below. Along with this, put it in a dark place. It is desirable that it be as cool as possible. Provide normal air humidity. It is enough to place an open container of water next to the fuchsia. But even in such conditions, the development of the plant will begin earlier, which is not good.
At home, fuchsia transplantation is a mandatory and annual event, regardless of the age of the plant. It is carried out in early spring or late winter, before the start of the growing season. In the same period, other manipulations with the plant are carried out, accompanying the transplant. Be sure to prune the plant before planting. Remove dried, weak or, on the contrary, elongated (fattening) shoots completely. The details and cutting technique will be below.
After removing the plant from the pot, be sure to inspect the roots. Remove damaged areas, if any.
Planting fuchsia is best done in a ceramic pot. It will better protect the root system from overheating and hypothermia than plastic. For each transplant, take a pot slightly larger than the previous one, about 1-2 centimeters in diameter.
Unpretentious fuchsia has no special requirements for the composition of the earth. There are many earth mixtures on sale that are suitable for transplanting it. This is usually light, loose soil. If you want to make the soil for fuchsia yourself, you can mix the following ingredients:
It is highly desirable to add wood ash to the mixture. It can also be added to a commercial mixture if it is not contained in it.